Exploring Yellowstone, Part Three: He maketh me hike up tall mountains and leadeth me beside still waters (and boiling geysers and springs)

On Thursday, I was looking forward to arriving at Lake Yellowstone Hotel; not only because we all desperately needed a shower after being out in the backcountry for four days, but also because I worked there one summer as a housekeeper during college. Other than a few improvements to the parking area and the addition of a snack bar by the lobby, not much had changed since then. One thing that I did not remember from my college days were all the bugs! Out in the backcountry, we had brought along bug spray, but it was the low-Deet variety designed for kids. We missed our Deep Woods Off, and that was the first thing we bought when we got to the general store. As we walked along the road between the hotel and Yellowstone Lake, we had to dodge swarms of gnats that were so thick you could hear them buzzing. I don't think I have ever heard gnats buzz before! Lake Yellowstone is beautiful, though, and in some ways it feels like home for me.

This is how thick the bugs were, and I think these gnats were bigger than the ones in Virginia.

We wanted to make sure our kids saw some of Yellowstone's geysers and hot springs, so on Friday we drove to Old Faithful. We explored the elegant Old Faithful Inn for a little while, and headed outside to view Yellowstone's most famous feature, Old Faithful Geyser. We didn't have to wait long before the eruption, and the kids were excited to see it. Afterward we took a stroll along the boardwalks to admire some of the other geysers and hot springs in the area. We strolled throuhg the Old Faithful area, and made sure we arrived at Daisy Geyser in time for it to erupt. By this time the kids (especially the youngest) were starting to get a little whiny, but when the geyser erupted they were very impressed! After lunch on the porch of the Old Faithful General Store, where we got to watch a mother bird (some kind of swallow, I think) flying in and out of a nest full of babies, we headed north to the Lower Geyser Basin to see the Fountain Paint Pots. This is an area of bubbling mud that looks pinkish in color; in the spring, the mud is more watery from snowmelt, and as the summer goes on it starts to dry up and the mud gets thicker. It looks like a pool of bubbling pink paint. This was my husband's favorite feature in the park when his parents brought him here as a kid; I'm not sure our boys were as awestruck as he was. ("THIS is your favorite thing in Yellowstone? Seriously??") Next stop was Midway Geyser Basin, home of the dormant but still bubbling Excelsior Geyser and the largest hot spring in Yellowstone, Grand Prismatic Spring. The kids were getting tired and their awe of geysers and hot springs was beginning to wane, so we made our way back to Lake, stopping briefly at the continental divide where there is a shallow pond full of lily pads called Isa Lake. I had been past this on the road several times in years past, but never stopped to see it up close. It's an interesting spot, because it sits right on the continental divide. We spotted a salamander as it darted under a lily pad, and watched a little eel swimming around as well. (Someday I'll blog about my youngest son's love of critters of all shapes and sizes. He didn't want to get back in the truck to go have dinner.)

Old Faithful, always faithful!

The boys really liked Spasmodic Geyser.

Daisy Geyser

We had fun watching this family while we had our lunch.

Fountain Paint Pots--blub, blub...

They say Excelsior Geyser dumps 4,000 gallons of water into the Firehole River every minute.

Isa Lake, on the Continental Divide.

On Saturday, we took a morning hike on Elephant Back Mountain, where we had a gorgeous view of Lake Yellowstone. This is a trail I hiked many times during my summer in Yellowstone, because it's very close to Lake Village. It's a great one to take with kids, too, because even though parts of the trail are a little steep, it's only about a three-mile loop. (Hopefully when we come to Yellowstone again we'll be able to tackle some bigger mountains. I've done Avalanche Peak and Mount Washburn, and both are strenuous but well worth it. I can't wait! )

The flat part of Elephant Back trail (that's our youngest running ahead)

Ok, it's not THAT steep...it's our ten-year-old's creative photography!

a red squirrel we spotted on the trail

Yellowstone Lake from the top of Elephant Back Mountain. You can see Lake Lodge on the left and Lake Hotel near the middle.

After lunch we drove a few miles north to the Mud Volcano area. This is another park feature I have driven past many times, but never stopped to look at. It's an area full of what look like boiling muddy lakes, some of which are churning violently and some gently sizzling. I'm glad we stopped to see it, because it was more interesting than I expected, and even beautiful in its own way. If you ever visit Yellowstone, be sure to check it out!

They call this Dragon's Mouth

Churning Caldron. All the thermal features smell like rotten eggs; this might be the stinkiest one in Yellowstone. Still, even the kids agreed that it was way cool! (well, way hot)

One of many bison we encountered on our vacation. This one seemed to be contemplating a mud bath.

One of several sizzling muddy ponds

Sunday was our last day in Yellowstone. After I took a few farewell photos of the lake in the morning, we had breakfast and went over to Lake Lodge for Sunday Mass in the recreation hall. This was where I spent many hours as an employee watching movies and basketball games, not to mention some serious partying; it was great to return here to worship the Lord. I still wasn't Catholic back then, and as a convert it was even more special to be celebrating the Eucharist here, with a view of the lake through the windows. After lunch we made our way back to Gardiner, stopping along the way to check out the Canyon Visitor's Center, and a brief stop to admire the unusual rock formations just south of Mammoth. As we were exiting the park through the Roosevelt Gate, my ten-year-old lamented that we might not ever return.

"Don't worry," I said. "We'll definitely be coming back." Next summer, though, we might just be camping in the backyard.

Goodbye, Yellowstone Lake

This guy was checking me out. The bugs are still thick, even at 7:30 am!

They call these rocks The Hoodoos

This was quite a long post, and if you're still reading it, THANK YOU for sticking with it until the end!!

Exploring Yellowstone, Part Two: Horsing Around in the Backcountry

Day One, Monday Five miles south of Mammoth Hot Springs is an area called Swan Lake Flats, where we began our four-day horse pack trip into the Yellowstone Backcountry. We rode about five miles west into the Gallatin range, to a campsite beside the Gardiner River, with a spectacular view of Electric Peak. Traveling with our family was a lawyer and his twelve-year-old daughter from Charlotte, North Carolina, and a father and son from New Jersey and their good friend, Jack. (It turned out that our lawyer friend was a former Eagle Scout, and his skills were much appreciated in the arts of tent-erecting and fire building.) As the guides loaded mules with equipment, our head guide, Jett, explained to us the ins and outs of riding horses, dealing with grizzly bears, and what to do with your used toilet paper when you're in the middle of nowhere. After a picnic lunch we mounted our horses and were on our way.

Jett and Carrie, a wildlife biologist and Jett's second-in-command, headed our caravan, leading about six mules loaded down with camping gear and cooking equipment; we tourists followed single file on our horses. Bringing up the rear was the third guide, Caitlin, who served as cook, guide, and wrangler. There had been thunderstorms during the night and in the early morning, and the weather was windy and cool. After riding through the open countryside for about a mile, we rounded a corner and saw two hikers heading in the opposite direction. They stopped to wait for us to pass, but as soon as the line of horses and mules were abreast of them, one of the hikers raised his walking stick in greeting.

The next thing I knew there were two mules running back the way we had come at full gallop, and the other horses abruptly turned and started to follow them. I have never ridden on a running horse before, and I will tell you right now I never want to again. I was scared to death. I didn't know what had happened to my husband or children; all I knew was my horse was running as fast as it could, and I was doing all I could to try not to fall off. After my horse finally slowed down, I looked back and saw that two of my kids were still on their horses, and they seemed to be standing still near where the horses first bolted. Finally I saw my husband and oldest son on their horses coming toward me with Caitlin the wrangler. Their horses had run farther than mine. Finally we got everybody back together, hats were retrieved, and the mules re-packed; although I don't think my legs stopped shaking.

The rest of the ride was uneventful until we got about a mile from camp and Jack's horse was spooked or something; it took off running again and poor Jack fell off. By this time Jett and the other guides were getting pretty nervous, and remarked that the weather was making the horses and the mules quite skittish. Finally we reached the camp and set up our tents. The wind made this quite challenging, but we managed, thanks in part to our new Eagle Scout friend. After a delicious dinner of brisket, the wind picked up again and it started to rain and hail. The storm was short-lived, though, and we were able to retire to dry tents and warm sleeping bags. I will admit I didn't sleep well that night, wondering what other excitement was in store for us (no more, please!) but I was thankful to have reached camp safely and grateful to be in such a beautiful place.

The horses rest after a stressful ride. Electric Peak is in the background.

Our campsite offered beautiful views!

After our little evening rain and hail, there was fresh snow on Electric Peak.

Someone put this elk skull on a stump to greet hikers and riders when they arrive at camp.

Days Two and Three: Tuesday and Wednesday When I emerged from our tent the next morning, my husband and several other people were sipping coffee by the fire and looking off into the distance. "Tell the boys to get up," my husband said. "There's a grizzly bear just across the river." I had spent an entire summer in Yellowstone during college, and I had never seen one. While in Mammoth we had decided to purchase an inexpensive set of binoculars, and I was glad we did!

If you look REALLY carefully you can see the grizzly bear. It's just above the gray line of the river, a little left of center. Luckily it was far away from us!

As we were preparing to eat breakfast, our middle son announced, "I don't feel so good..." and promptly threw up. It was clear he wasn't going to be riding any horses that day. We're pretty sure it was altitude sickness, because the same thing happened a few years ago when we traveled to Colorado. So, hubby stayed back at camp with Altitude Boy, as well as our friend Jack, who wanted to give his sixty-something body a rest after his fall from the horse. We rode a few miles through fields and woods, crossing creeks and rivers, stopped for lunch, and headed back to camp to check up on everyone who had stayed behind. After a brief rest, Caitlin took the group out again; this time I stayed behind with the sick one. A short time later they all came back, and my youngest announced that they had seen the bear again. (At least, we think it was probably the same one.) Hubby said that they went over a ridge and our eight-year-old said excitedly, "Look! That bear is RIGHT THERE!" That's when everyone decided to quietly turn around and come back.

Another beautiful view from our camp site

On Wednesday, Altitude Boy woke up feeling much better, but wasn't too excited about the idea of riding around on horses all day, so he and hubby stayed behind and did some fishing. Jett and Caitlin took us seven miles to the northwest (I think) toward Fawn Pass. It was a long ride, and we didn't quite make it to the top because the horses and riders were getting tired. It was a beautiful ride, though, and I am happy to say my legs and my behind were starting to get used to being on a horse for hours at a time. On the way back, about two miles from camp, I was admiring the beautiful wilderness when I suddenly heard the sound of my youngest son crying. When I looked up I saw his horse, and he wasn't sitting on it; he was on the ground rubbing his head. Turns out that his horse either kicked the one behind him or was kicking at a pesky insect and the kid just wasn't holding on tightly enough. He was fine though, and got back on his horse and rode the rest of the way back--holding on tightly to the reins and the saddle horn.

At the end of the day we had yet another DELICIOUS dinner by the fire, and the kids roasted marshmallows and ate s'mores. It was a clear night, and we spent some time looking at the stars before going to bed. This was the first time they had seen so many stars in the sky, and I'm not sure they had ever seen the Milky Way.

The riders head off on another adventure

Fawn Lake, one of many beautiful sights on our rides.

Near Fawn Pass. We didn't quite make it, but what a beautiful view!

Hubby and Son had a good day fishing

What's camping without roasting marshmallows?

Day Four, Thursday By this time we hadn't showered since Monday, and we were pretty darn grubby. We had a leisurely breakfast, packed up the tents and all our stuff, and headed back toward the trail head and the road. The plan was for the mules to go back the way we came, and for Caitlin to take the horses and riders a different route so we could enjoy more of Yellowstone we hadn't yet seen. At the top of a hill we came across another group of riders on a day trip. Their guide told us that a large tree had fallen across the trail where we were planning to go, and it was difficult and dangerous to try to take horses through there. So, we stopped for lunch, enjoyed the view, and decided to go back to the road the way we came. Later we were glad we did, because some of the horses were skittish again that day (I think they were anxious to be home again), and poor Jack fell off of his horse a second time. He lay on the ground for several minutes before Jack's friends and Cailtin were able to help him up again. (This time, he rode a different horse.) We were so relieved when we finally reached the two horse trailers parked on the side of the road! Jack had to be helped off of his horse, and he said his shoulder was stiff and sore, but thankfully nothing seemed to be broken.

Needless to say, this was a more exciting adventure than we thought it would be. Would I do it again? Absolutely!! (That reminds me--it's time to start saving up for the next one.) Our guides were fabulous, the food was delicious, and we made some new friends. Other trail rides I had been on were only hour-long rides; I realize now that if I'm going to ride a horse for four days, there is bound to be a little bit of excitement. (Jett told us that this trip was more eventful than usual, too.) And now I know I can ride on a galloping horse without falling off. As long as there is a saddle horn for me to hang on to.

View of Bunsen Peak on the way back

The end is in sight! Swan Lake, Swan Lake Flat, and just beyond that, the road.

COMING SOON: The exciting conclusion of our Yellowstone saga! (although, it might not be exciting as this one, but I'll post some great pictures! )

Exploring Yellowstone, Part One: Mammoth Hot Springs and the Canyon

We arrived at Bozeman airport in the early afternoon on Saturday, and made the roughly 2-hour drive to the North Entrance in Gardiner, Montana. We were immediately greeted by this critter:
On previous trips to Yellowstone, I have seen groups of several pronghorns grazing together in northern Yellowstone; right by the entrance, as a matter of fact, where we saw this one. This time he (she??) was alone.

Once we arrived at Mammoth Hot Springs, we had time to explore the village and were greeted by quite a few more animals:I've never seen a magpie, as far as I know. They seemed to feel right at home at Mammoth.

A mother elk and her calf

These prairie dogs made their home on the lawn of the hotel.

We even had time to attend Saturday evening Mass at the Mammoth chapel. My oldest son got to be an altar server (in shorts and a T-shirt!) and my younger two served as ushers.

The next morning, we took a ranger-led walk through the Mammoth Hot Springs terraces. I had heard rumors that the springs at Mammoth were drying up, and I was curious to see if this were true. We did find that the most famous terrace in the Park, Minerva Terrace, was indeed dried up, and it had been since the mid-1990's. The ranger told us that the amount of water in the springs at Mammoth have stayed constant for many decades; so when one spring dries up, another one pops up somewhere else.

Minerva Terrace as it used to look...

...and now this is how we found it.

This is a year-old spring that's so new they haven't named it yet.

There is plenty of water at Mammoth Hot Springs!

The view of the terraces from the hotel

Folks say this looks like a scary Halloween ghost mask.

Later we piled into our rental truck and took a drive around the northern part of the Park, visiting Tower Fall, The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and Norris Geyser Basin. The highlight of the day was a stop along the North Rim Drive of the canyon, and a half-mile hike downhill--with many switchbacks--to the brink of Lower Falls. Staring down at the powerful waterfall from above was amazing!

The Yellowstone River just before it plunges over Lower Falls

This view made me dizzy!

the view of the canyon from the top of Lower Falls

Lower Falls from a safer distance.

Of course, the hike back up the trail was a little bit more challenging than the walk down, and we definitely were breathing a little harder because of the higher altitude. It was well worth it!

We saw lots of evidence of the forest re-establishing itself after the devastating fires of 1988.

The next day we began our four-day adventure into the backcountry on horses. I'll tell you all about THAT in a later post!